An Introduction to the Wine and Viticulture Industry in Hawke’s Bay
The following very brief description and comment on the Hawke’s Bay wine industry is made with the admission that the information given and opinions offered are of necessity, very generalised. There are bound to be exceptions to most facts or opinion offered and perhaps even inaccuracies. Comment and constructive criticism on this article will always be appreciated.
Grapes for winemaking were first planted in Hawke’s Bay by Roman Catholic missionary priests who established their first vineyard in 1851. Their presence remains today through the premium wines produced at the Green Meadows Mission Estate Winery. Another early settler to establish commercial plantings was Bernard Chambers, who established a vineyard on his Te Mata sheep station near Havelock North in 1892 (The internationally recognised Te Mata Estate was developed from this old vineyard in the 1970’s by John Buck and fellow investors. This outstanding winery continues to demonstrate the ability of this site to produce great wines). In 1895 an Italian viticulturist, Romeo Bragato, travelled through the country visiting Te Mata on the way, looking at viticulture prospects. He is recorded as stating that the District “would make wine of the finest quality”. Bragato identified the presence of Phylloxera in New Zealand. He was subsequently appointed Government Viticulturist in 1902 where he started a vine grafting program based from the Te Kauwhata Research Station using Phylloxera resistant root stocks.
By the mid 1980’s a significant wine industry had developed in Hawke’s Bay, but not in its present form. In 1986 nearly 48,000 tonnes of white variety grapes were grown, nearly all of which were sweet, bulk wine varieties, especially Muller Thurgau – 20,740 tonnes. The combined total of classic red varieties was only 5349 tonnes. Most of this production came from vineyards on fertile silt loam soils and today many of these sites are replanted to apple or stone fruit orchards. In 2004 the transition of the Hawke’s Bay wine industry from fertile growing sites to vineyards having the free draining soils and low natural fertility considered necessary for consistently high quality wine production, is largely, although not entirely complete. Significant plantings of what can be best described as “bulk”, medium to low quality Chardonnay and Bordeaux style wine grapes, continue production on relatively fertile soils. On these sites the natural effect of fertility, organic matter and just as importantly in these soils, closely related soil moisture retention, will, depending on seasonal growing conditions, result in excessive vine vigour, high fruit set and yield. Without compensating management, high crop loading together with excessive canopy growth and shading, inevitably reduces the potential of the grapes to achieve a satisfactory degree of ripeness (or sugar content measured as BRIX). With careful canopy management, controlled irrigation input and other compensating management techniques, good wine makers can and often do produce medium quality and in good vintage years – quite good and even award winning wines from these grapes. These properties have continued to produce and in many instances to expand, principally as a result of the surprising fact that in past years, wine makers have not paid growers a significant premium for very high quality grapes from low yielding sites, or grapes manually thinned in the vineyard and otherwise restricted in yield to achieve the same effect. The most profitable vineyards have in fact usually been those producing the highest yields rather than the highest quality grapes. This situation is changing and there is now concern for the future of medium or average quality wine in an increasingly over supplied domestic market and a highly competitive export market. This fact was very much evident in the bumper 2004 vintage which for the first time tested the vat storage capacity of the Hawkes Bay wine Industry. Not all Hawkes Bay grape growers found buyers of their crop in 2004 and this has been a much awaited wake up call for some sections of the Industry.
By the 1980’s a few pioneers of the present day wine industry had recognised that the future lay in the production of classic – mainly Bordeaux grape varieties, grown on low vigour soils previously considered shallow, drought prone and of little value for any purpose other than sheep and cattle. The earliest recognition for outstanding Bordeaux style wines grown in this type of environment was probably for the first Coleraine and Awatea wines produced in the early 1980’s at Te Mata Estate on the outskirts of Havelock North. Other growers and wine makers such as Chris Pask at Pask Estate, Alwyn Corban at Ngatarawa Wines and Dr Allan Limmer of Stonecroft were not far behind in gaining success and recognition. From these new beginnings developed what was in effect an entirely new phase in the Hawke’s Bay wine industry. Many outstanding vineyards and wineries have been established gaining national and international reputations. By 2003 approximately 3700 hectares of vineyard plantings were established within Hawke’s Bay, up from 1600 hectares in 1995. By 2006 it is anticipated that these plantings will rise to approximately 4600 hectares.
Over the recent 2004 vintage Hawke’s Bay growers produced a record 30,429 tonnes, 19,597 tonnes more than in 2003 which was critically affected by severe un seasonal early spring frosts. Nationwide the harvest was estimated at 166,000 tonnes. Hawke’s Bay was New Zealand’s second largest producer behind Marlborough which produced 92,581 tonnes.
While vineyards are scattered over a broad area of Hawke’s Bay, a number of distinct growing areas or appellations may be distinguished. The substantial new vineyard plantings over the past eight years are generally concentrated in these areas. Other growing areas with differing soils and microclimates may well develop in the future as small-scale plantings are established, evaluated and in turn have their successes recognised.
The Gimblett Gravel’s – Located immediately west of the city of Hastings. This area is an old riverbed of the nearby Ngaruroro River. Growing vines in the various grades of stone, gravel, silt and sand, is in some respects similar to hydroponic plant production, where irrigation is the vine’s life support and medium for plant food or macro element and microelement transfer. The river stone and gravel absorbs and retains the suns heat. As a result this is a warm growing environment, proven for its ability to ripen and develop full bodied Bordeaux red varieties – Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec and Cabernet Franc. It is capable of producing a fully ripened, intense style of Chardonnay. More recently this area has dominated New Zealand’s awards for Syrah, pioneered in Hawkes Bay by Dr Allan Limmer at Stonecroft. Syrah is being planted in increased quantity in Hawkes Bay, especially on stony and red metal soil types having early ripening characteristics. Syrah is a little different in character from the highly intense, powerful, spicy and fruit dominated Australian Syrah (or Shiraz) with which many New Zealand wine drinkers have become familiar. At its best, Hawkes Bay Syrah has been described as similar in character to the French Rhone Valley wine, combining body with a degree of elegance and an attractive balance of tannins and fruit.
The Ngatarawa Triangle – Located south west of Hastings and immediately south of the Gimblett Gravels, this area, sometimes referred to as the “Bridge Pa Triangle”, lies in a triangle formed by Ngatarawa and Maraekakaho Roads and by State Highway 50. Most vineyards of the vineyards in this area contain one or more of the three basic soil types; Ngatarawa Gravel’s, Takapau silt Loam – a free draining “red metal” type soil of mixed alluvial and volcanic origin, and shallow clay loam soils with underlying deep free draining volcanic ash. The main varieties grown are Merlot, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Alwyn Corban and his partners who established Ngatarawa winery were the first to achieve outstanding success in this area.
Highway 50 – An extensive area of “red metal” Takapau silt and sandy loam soils lying South of The Bridge pa Triangle on State Highway 50, but also extending west from the small settlement of Maraekakaho through the adjoining Kereru Road. In recent years substantial plantings have been developed over this area by corporate wine investors and other boutique wineries. In Hawke’s Bay the Takapau soil series have made a unique and outstanding contribution to the Hawke’s Bay wine Industry over the past decade and as a result have become highly sought after as a preferred medium for premium wine grape production. As with the Gimblett gravel soils, the free draining “red metal’ (volcanic scoria) content of these soils results in a warm, early ripening environment and in the Highway 50 area are considered to be highly suitable for a similar range of grape varieties.
Havelock North. – This area was probably the first in Hawke’s Bay to achieve international recognition through Te Mata Estate’s Coleraine, their premium blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Havelock North produces a range of mainly Bordeaux style red wines, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. The Havelock North vineyards have a warm sheltered growing environment on the eastern outskirts of Havelock North village, on the lowest north facing slopes immediately below the Te Mata Range and Te Mata Peak. These are clay soils and as such a little unique as a proven site for the outstanding Bordeaux style wines they consistently produce. The necessary “low vigour” effect on the vineyards is amply provided by an impervious mineral hard pan (the famous “Havelock Hardpan”) that in its natural state restricts vine root development and moisture uptake through the course of the ripening season.
Te Awanga – Haumoana – A coastal area between the lower reaches of the Tuki Tuki River and the coastal village of Te Awanga. This area has its own distinctively cool microclimate, being strongly influenced by the cooling effect of daily sea breezes. Within Hawke’s Bay this is a relatively late ripening site, however the constant and reliable sea breeze and air movement through the vineyards tend to minimise the development of vineyard fungal diseases, etc, and results in a healthy grape growing environment. The area is well known for the constantly outstanding wines produced by Tim Turvey’s small boutique winery “Clearview”. More recently Te Awanga Vineyards have achieved considerable recognition producing under the Kim Crawford label. The cool microclimate is particularly suited for classic white varieties. Warm days, cool nights and reliable air movement through the vineyards encourages the growth of relatively small grapes with thick skins, which, in the hands of a capable wine maker produce both white and red wines of considerable flavour, body and intensity of flavour. Because of the coastal climatic influence, this area is considered to have a relatively low early spring frost risk.
Inland Ngaruroro River – Another growing area with a distinctly cooler microclimate can be found 30 km (as the crow flies) west of Hastings, on the high terraces either side of the Ngaruroro River. The climate here is influenced by the proximity of the nearby Kaweka Mountain Range. Substantial plantings were first initiated by Morton Estate Winery (now New Zealand’s largest independent wine producer), in what is now their flagship winery, Riverview. Other major plantings have been made on the north bank of the river by Morton Estate and by Delegates Wines. In 2003 New Zealand’s largest corporate producer Montana Wines acquired 200 hectares on which substantial plantings have now been initiated. Plantings through this area are almost entirely on Takapau silt and sandy loam “red metal” soils. While a variety of grape varieties have been established the area is undoubtedly best suited to cool climate whites – Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc and for Pinot Noir, – mainly for Champagne type wines. It remains to be proven whether or not, with time and as the vines mature, Hawkes Bay’s cooler climate plantings of Pinot Noir can produce premium quality still wines. Well proven however is the totally outstanding Chardonnay consistently produced by Morton Estate. This is evidenced by their trophy awarded for best Chardonnay in the World in 1997 at the London International Wine and Spirits Competition, as well as numerous other international and national gold medals and Industry accolades through to the present time.
Esk Valley – Visitors leaving Taupo and entering Hawkes Bay via Highway 5 will travel through the picturesque Esk Valley which is located about 12 kilometres north from the city of Napier. This is a long established Hawkes Bay grape growing area, perhaps best known for the consistently excellent wines produced by Esk Valley Winery (Villa Maria, Hawkes Bay Vineyards). Most of the Esk Valley grape plantings are established on very free draining sandy and sandy loam soils. This is a warm, sheltered environment and the valley has an early ripening micro climate, well suited to Bordeaux style red wines and for fully ripened Chardonnay.
Purchasing vineyards and viticulture land in Hawke’s Bay.
The Hawke’s Bay District differs from other broad growing areas within New Zealand through the variation in micro climates and soil types within which wine grapes are grown and arguably, the wider range of premium quality wines that might be produced. Given this relatively wide choice careful site appraisal is essential. If the investor has an ambition to make wine of a particular variety and style then special consideration needs to be given to the requirements of that particular grape variety. However a common pre requisite for premium wine grape production is a low vigour site with free draining soils. In addition irrigation for both vine establishment and subsequently for grape production will be an important consideration. In many French vineyards famous for their fine wines, irrigation is not practiced or even permitted. In Hawkes Bay on shingle, red metal and other very free draining soil types, natural soil water retention can be very low. Without controlled irrigation water, vines will become stressed when ripening fruit over extended dry periods. Contrary to some opinion, fruit from drought stressed vines is unlikely to make good wine and drought stress can in fact result in off flavour characteristics. This being the case, an otherwise ideal vineyard site is of little value without access to adequate irrigation water (and if necessary frost control water). In addition a legal consent will be required to use that water. Within Hawke’s Bay water consents are issued by the Hawkes Bay Regional Council and are very carefully controlled. In some areas, especially where water is drawn from a stream, river, riverbed or a commonly used aquifer, water rights are already fully allocated. Further water rights are not available and new vineyard or horticultural development simply not possible.
An important factor in selecting a vineyard location is the potential of that site for late spring frost. In 2000 and 2003, Hawkes Bay vineyards – even in coastal areas previously thought immune to frost damage, were severely damaged by late spring air frosts. Some of the very best growing areas in Hawke’s Bay are particularly frost prone. Measures to combat frost include spraying water, frost pots, windmills and hiring helicopters (the latter two are used to move layers of higher air which have not reached freezing level down to the vineyard level). A recent innovation has been the use of tractor drawn mobile LPG heaters.
Within recognised growing areas premium vineyard land has commonly sold at prices between $45,000 and $55,000 per hectare. Land prices within the Gimblett Gravel are usually considerably higher, driven largely by the fact that this land area is limited in size, demand and the fact that blocks are not often made available. Other outer-lying areas very suitable for vineyard development but still predominantly in livestock production are often available for sale priced in the region of $20,000 per hectare providing always that adequate irrigation water is available.
Prices paid for producing vineyards are can be quite variable. There are few if any of the early bulk Muller Thurgau (or similar) vineyards remaining within Hawke’s Bay. In reality very old vineyards have only bare land value, minus perhaps the cost of removing their posts and vines.
There remain however substantial plantings on relatively fertile silt loam soils, what can best be described as medium or bulk quality Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and a few other varieties dating from the 1980’s. Many of the established vineyards offered for sale in Hawke’s Bay come into this category. Up until the 2004 vintage there has been an under supply of classic grape varieties within Hawkes Bay and premium high quality well ripened grapes from low yielding vineyards have not received a substantial price premium over average quality grapes. High yielding vineyards have been the most profitable for growers not involved in wine making and sale prices for this type of vineyard have commonly been between $50,000 and $70,000 per hectare. This situation will not continue given the extensive plantings of high quality vineyards currently coming into maturity and production. Never the less any vineyard or orchard located on a heavier and concequently more fertile soil catagory, particually if adequate irrigation water is available, is likely to maintain a reasonably high land value because of buyer competition from orchardists and cash crop farmers.
A largest land rural land areas in Hawke’s Bay are utilised as hill country pastoral farms, a substantial proportion of which have substantial areas of limestone derived soils. There is a growing appreciation that where adequate water is available (commonly so in limestone country) warm, sheltered, north facing slopes can be an ideal medium for a number of grape varieties. Vineyards in the Rhone valley of France (home of Syrah) are commonly based on limestone soils. There are of course other important aspects of vineyard site selection to be considered, however prices for this class of land can be very reasonable. An example of the quality of wine made from grapes grown from this class of hillside site can be seen in the Hawkes Bay winery Brookfield’s 2002 Hillside Syrah, which sent shock waves through the Australian wine Industry by winning in the Sydney International Wine Competition both the top award for best red table wine and for the best fuller bodied red table wine. Another recent Hawke’s Bay wine “Bilancia” from a hillside vineyard won the Syrah trophy in the New Zealand Wine Society Royal Easter Show.
Filed under: Hawkes Bay, Vineyards
